Cappelletti romagnoli in brodo

“In Romagna i cappelletti sono di magro: solo formaggi, niente carne. Mia nonna Teresa li faceva il 24 dicembre, con le sorelle e le cugine intorno al tavolone, e una radio accesa in cucina. Il ripieno — ricotta, raviggiolo, parmigiano, una grattata di limone — lo chiudeva a mano in minuscoli cappelletti che stavano due in un cucchiaio. Il brodo partiva alle sette del mattino, di cappone e manzo. A mezzogiorno di Natale tutta la famiglia sapeva che c’era solo una domanda possibile: “quanti?”.”

— Nicola, her grandson

The steps

1. Make the filling the day before. In a bowl, mix 250g fresh ricotta with 150g raviggiolo (or stracchino if raviggiolo is hard to find), 150g grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, one whole egg, a generous grate of fresh nutmeg, the zest of half an untreated lemon, and a small pinch of salt. It should be smooth, dense, and smell like Christmas. Cover and rest overnight in the fridge.

2. The dough, Sunday morning. 400g flour 00, 4 eggs, a pinch of salt. Knead by hand for 15 minutes until elastic and pale. Wrap and rest under a warm bowl for 30 minutes. No shortcuts.

3. Roll the sfoglia. Thin enough to read the Gazzetta through it. Cut into 3×3 cm squares with a sharp knife or a smooth wheel. Keep the rest covered — the pasta dries faster than you think.

4. Fill & fold the cappelletto. A pea-sized dot of filling in the centre. Fold the square into a triangle, pressing the edges firmly. Wrap the long side around your fingertip, pinch the two tips together, and flip up the top fold: that’s the “hat”. The first twenty will look shy. The next two hundred won’t.

5. The brodo. Half a hen (or a piece of capon, if you can find one), 400g beef shank, one onion, one carrot, one stalk of celery, one small tomato. Cover with cold water. Four hours on the lowest possible flame. Skim the foam slowly, never all at once.

6. Cook and serve. Drop the cappelletti into the gently simmering brodo. Four minutes, no more. Serve in warmed bowls with a snowfall of Parmigiano. The only question allowed at the table is “quanti?” — how many?.

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